We wish we’d planned to spend more time in Rome. We didn’t expect it to be quite so calm, beautiful and… to be honest, so friendly. We had been prepared for sweltering August weather, chaotic traffic congestion, pickpockets and legendary tourist rip-off experiences like the family in the papers who paid €35 for two ice-creams. Instead, we spent most of our time strolling and playing in quiet pedestrianised streets where people in Vespas drove carefully around us (one man pretended to race Cormac on his Micro scooter and kindly let him win). Mornings and evening were pleasantly warm (as opposed to boiling); we retreated to our air-conditioned apartment for lovely long siestas during the hot afternoons. It may have been because all the Roman residents were away at the beach but it suited us perfectly. Our taxi drivers were mostly helpful and accommodating; the restaurants we ate in were fab; the waiters were charming; the gelato was to die for and our days out had something for everyone!

Our visit to the Vatican Museums/Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica was a particular highlight – we spent quite some time in the Raphael galleries with the mamas appreciating art, Little Wildberry looking for the rest of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (Raphael, Leonardo etc) and Big Wildberry carefully studying each painting to find the spears, swords and arrows used to ‘kill the bad guys’!  In our usual style we had set off at 7am in order to avoid the legendary crowds, and amazingly we were allowed in to the Vatican museums before official opening hours. So we had the extraordinary privilege of being practically on our own, wandering through gallery after gallery surrounded by priceless works of art. We were able to stroll around peacefully at our own pace; the boys could lie on the cool marble floors and look at the sumptuous painted ceilings without fear of being trampled underfoot.

At the end of this extraordinary day we saw the Pietà. Even little Wildberry, totally sick of it all by then, was impressed. An awesome day.